It’s all about the money…

“I had my whole life planed out.” “And then I had you.” Great thing to hear a mother say.

Agreed. But anything that is released as open source will still exist even if they move to closed source. So another group can take that code and continue to develop it as a new project.

They would likely have to rewrite the linux kernel right? I’ve never heard of a single project being granted taking the kernel private. If they were going to do that they would find it easier to rebase back on FreeBSD. They just switched to linux and invested a ton into the switch. The switch already cost them a bunch of users and dissent, the current narrative is causing more.

There will be forks of all the current code either way.

I would be more worried about the cheap Chinese hardware people are using that utilizes the linux kernel and other code that doesn’t contribute back to the project or release their code.

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I think what you are referring to is this post https://forums.truenas.com/t/clearing-the-air-on-build-scripts/64357

There are people (likely in Asia) who are using the TrueNAS Build Tools to build versions that are no different other than removing license files and references, changing the name, changing some graphics and then selling the created ISO for profit.

The TrueNAS code is still GPLv3 and because it was that when they started using Linux base and not FreeBSD. The FreeBSD code is released under the BSD license which does allow closing of the source at any time. But here is what the internet had to say:

The BSD license is a permissive license that allows for minimal restrictions on how software can be used, modified, and distributed, including the ability to incorporate it into proprietary software. In contrast, GPLv3 is a copyleft license that requires any derivative works to also be distributed under the same GPLv3 terms, ensuring that the freedoms granted by the license are preserved.

I’m using the HomeAssistant Blue. Amazing device you can no longer get but can build something similar. I’m slowly working on integrating HomeAssistant into an old house I’m fixing up while I live in it. I build many of my own sensors and controllers using ESP32’S and ESP8266’s. They run on wifi and use a bit more power but I can build a single box that costs me about 30 bucks and will cover multiple zigbee devices so don’t discount the use of wifi. The ESPHome Bluetooth proxy paired with the Bermuda BLE Triangulation is another plus for ESP32’s for tracking as you can use a phone with Bluetooth low energy setup in the HomeAssistant app or you can use the android ble trackers.

I’ve been integrating some zigbee devices lately and ones like the Sonoff ZBMINIR2’S are really nice to have since they can turn any dumb switch into a smart one. This will be less useful in an apartment but something to keep in mind. For zigbee sensors I use a vibration sensor on my front door and have some moisture sensors that will be paired with a zigbee faucet valve for automatically watering my garden this year. I have a couple zigbee rgb bulbs and they seem fine as well.

Another project to look into is WLED is truly amazing for RGB strips and strings.b

For the thread/matter vs zigbee stuff there is a ton of information out there. They use different frequencies (zigbee overlaps with wifi thread/matter doesn’t.) Thread/matter utilizes IPv6 and can provide internet access while zigbee does not. Zigbee has been around longer and is very stable and mature thread/matter is newer and aiming for higher bandwidth an better interoperability.

Just to throw a wrench into the works there is also Z-wave

https://lemmy.world/c/homeassistant is a good place to get more help and info on HomeAssistant as well as directly on the HomeAssistant site.

I believe you have to disable zha before you attempt to flash. You can’t have something actively working with the adapter while trying to flash it. The easiest way is to just drop the adapter into a desktop computer.

If you are looking to use Z2M you have to stop ZHA. You can’t have two different software packages attempting to access a single adapter, it’s basically like trying to flash while in use. Alternatively you can buy a second adapter and use that for Z2M and keep the original wiring with ZHA.

https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/zha/#limitations

That is what I did. Put four industrial rollers on it a bottom, top, sides, back door and front door on it. Cut a hole in the bottom and a really good hvac filter plus a set of fans and some sound deadening panels. The air at the floor is always naturally cooler. Cut an exhaust at the back with fans and a baffle with sound deadening panels. Two 120v inputs feed in and all the network cables feed in. Need to move it. Power down, unlock the wheels, and move it.

Leave enough slack in the cables you can put it in a small closet and hook up ducting to help control the hot air. The air is warm and dry and if a room or area stays cooler use it like a space heater. Vent it into the crawl space is another option though i would be careful drawing air in unless it’s a sealed crawlspace. Vent it outside, more useful when cool and dry not hot or humid again gottabe careful about the air. Or hook it up to your home ducting or a portable ac unit.

No, I enjoy respectful discussion and learning. There is a huge difference. When you get to the raised voices, snide remarks, and it feels like your hair is on fire the whole time it’s arguing.

I lived with a woman who loved to constantly bicker and argue, sometimes to the point where there were screaming matches over stupid stuff. You didn’t dare defy her. She was in a family that constantly fought and argued over pretty things. I was stuck with it and arguing with her boyfriends who 80 percent of the time were not all that bright. I hated arguing by the time I was in school.

That was my mother. When I finally left I could eat a meal and be sick, vomiting a green slime because of the constant fighting and crap. My son a few months prior had passed away at 9 days old, we had been homeless because of her decisions to not pay things, and her latest winner of a boyfriend kept picking fights with me because I was younger so obviously I knew nothing and he knew it all.

This man screwed up so many things because he could do it all. He did a brake job on a car and had to treat it apart again because he messed something else up. Not to mention he didn’t torque the lug nuts. My mother’s previous boyfriend would hand me a part and tell me, “the pickup needs tree water pump replaced, go do it.” When I had never done one in my life without telling me how pre internet and had no problem. From around 9 to i was 18 that guy who was a former biker, maybe draftee, and spent 15 years in maximum security prison for beating the crap of of his ex and her new man then taking a TV and slamming it on the man’s head nearly killing them both so also seemed to hate my guts.

I finally left not long after she got drunk and pissed off at me for something and told me how her life had been ruined because she had me.

I can’t stand fighting and arguing. I can’t stand taking on the phone either, my mother loved yelling and slamming them too she had the 50 foot cord and loved the cordless ones.

The only time I had fun with arguing was in WoW… have some public fight and be breezing through, then stir the pot and leave. Come back hours later and they were still at it. My favorite was for the grammar nazi’s, a simple, “There, their, they’re… it’ll be ok.” Was my favorite.

Many open source operating systems exist that can turn a computer with multiple NIC’s into a router or can be used in place of a hardware router OS. https://distrowatch.com/search.php?ostype=All&category=Firewall&origin=All&basedon=All&notbasedon=None&desktop=No+desktop&architecture=All&package=All&rolling=All&isosize=All&netinstall=All&language=All&defaultinit=All&status=Active#simpleresults is a search on distrowatch.com that gives you a petty good list to get started.

I personally use OpnSense with a Supermicro motherboard a Xeon E3-1226 v3, and 16GB of RAM. It was all used server equipment bought on Ebay. I run Caddy, an ACME client, Intrusion Detection, Chrony, UnboundDNS, Wireguard as a VPN endpoint, and Wireguard as a client for IPv6 connectivity through Route64 because my ISP only has an IPv4 stack. For WiFi access I’m running a couple TP-Link Omada EAP-650’s with the OC200 controller using POE so I can place them in ideal locations.

Will a firewall prevent issues if the Asus devices have some sort of Spyware on them. It can but not by default. Generally firewalls are configured to stop anything coming in and let anything out. Since the RT-AX3000’s are on your internal network by default they can send data out. Something like Intrusion Detection can watch for bad things running on your network and help but you would have to set static IP’s on each one and null route them. You could also flash them to an open source firmware if you are worried but is a personal decision.

I avoid two things in networking, router modem combo devices and really cheap routers or access points. Honestly you should ask, “Why is this so cheap?” Then look at the reviews for those super cheap Chinese android tablets and computers and you should begin to understand my reasoning why.

Also used commercial grade hardware on Ebay is a great place to get a steal if you are building a homelab. Most of the time this stuff is pulled because it no longer is fast enough for a server farm and functionally obsolete. The firmware will generally be very stable and well tested. I’m running a 10Gbps fiber backbone for my network that connects my router, server, 48port ethernet switch (using 2 DAC cables), and desktop computer together.

I have a 1Gbps fiber connection and speedtest at 950Mbps while everything is up and running. The Ethernet connection at 1000Mbps is the limiting factor. A speedtest from my cell phone (S26) over WiFi I test at 680Mbps. My testing internally from my desktop to my server using openspeedtest runs around 8000Mbps.

Just because it has thread support doesn’t mean it will work. Both the hardware and software have to support it. Research it before you buy.

I run a hybrid setup. I’m going to go in depth on some stuff because lights and switches are only the beginning.

I’m using a mix of rgb bulbs and switches. Every room tends to have one of each minimum. The reason for this is that I can do fun things with RGB bulbs like have them change color in sequence https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_LUe0OMj70

Or the RGB’s can visually give information like weather conditions when you wake up, or storm alerts if you are gaming with a headset. I am messing with a follow me setup and my stepson at the same time by changing the color of his RGB bulb based on my location in the house.

I’m also using old phones and tablets at multiple locations so control of them is no big deal when the need arises and these devices also allow quick access to cameras and other information and controls. Places where I don’t have tablets or phones will be eventually getting homemade smart switches to control things.

I’ve found that the Sonoff ZBMINI series is very nice to use if you can fit them in the box. They turn any old dumb switch into a smart switch and they can be used with low voltage switches if they have 2 switch legs. The switch legs can accept high voltage but when they are wired together they run 5v, you just have to check with a meter. They can also turn outlets into smart outlets without a switch connected at all. Anything that runs on a battery is zigbee and I’m slowly migrating anything I can’t build myself that way.

I use WLED for RGB strips, build my own indoor sensors and fixed placement switch controls using ESP32’s and ESP8266’s so they all use wifi or eventually will be POE wired. I also built my own controller for my water heater using an ESP8266, DS18B20’s, and a multi pole solid state relay. I setup my own water meter using a meter with a built in pulse output and an ESP8266. My electric meter uses an ESP32, a pair of ATM90E32AS, and some current transformers. Everything setup on ESP’s run ESPhome.

The best setup is what YOU choose works best for your home and situation. Anyone who says otherwise has a different mindset, situation, and design ethos. Many people claim wifi devices are always problematic, the only reason why I’m switching from them is is harder to get them off the manufacturer’s ecosystem as for me they have worked flawlessly. I run a very powerful router with a 10G fiber LAN backbone and commercial grade switches and multiple commercial grade AP’s because I am building things in a way that suits my usage and experience. I have pulled over 2500 feet of ethernet through the house along with some OM3 fiber and still need to pull more to be finished.

BTW I’ve been told over and over again how many things I do won’t work or are wrong or are going to start a fire etcetera etcetera. My 240v water heater setup has been up and running for over 6 years now with no issue. If you really understand how things work and research the parts you are using anything is possible. Just remember that if you DIY you are the person responsible for the results.

No problem. Just remember it gets addictive. I stick led strips and strings in a ton of stuff. My other half bought a wire work Christmas deer that had old incandescent lights in it and I threw some RGB string lights with WLED. She bought a metal star with little cutouts in it and I mounted it to a board and stuck some RGB’s in it as well. Took a piece of scrap OSB and printed Merry Christmas off in big letters then drilled holes at regular intervals to put a bunch of the individual pixels from a string of RGB’s into as well.

My intention is to eventually put strips in nearly every room in the house and install them outside as well. That way when I want a different color than white I can just change it with the LED’s.

I’m planning to create a huge Christmas display that can play short videos and graphics on to setup where our city does a display each year. And at some point I’m going to pitch them letting me upgrade the Christmas decorations with WLED and RGB strings. Then with a couple AP’s strategically placed in can setup a synchronized light show.

Like I said WLED is amazing.

I build my own using ESP32’s, WS2812B RGB Strips and WLED. Drop the controller into a small hobby box and add a power supply and it’s of to the races.

https://kno.wled.ge/ https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/wled/

My front porch has a little over 1500 LED’s wrapped around it. I built my own RGB LED backlit address numbers. And I’m working on a project that lights up my stairs. I’ve made a few other things and have ideas for a bunch more.

There is no support for zigbee, matter, or thread. But what can be done with it is well beyond anything else I’ve seen.

https://wled.discourse.group/t/wled-equipped-address-numbers/15217 is my address numbers in a short video.

https://wled.discourse.group/t/fully-fledged-staircase-implementation/2182 is the stair implementation I’m going to use for my own.

Here is the issue with modularity like you are planning. If a cable is loose because something bumped into it you now have a problem to chase. Even worse you now have the potential for a power cable to become completely unplugged while the host is still up and running. Having two power supplies also creates a potential for a ground loop through the data cables if things are not made correctly.

Some people have been able to use USB drives connected to a computer to create a NAS but they are also the ones hitting forums because they have issues. What you are trying to do isn’t much different. If you want to keep your hardware you would be much better off getting a case that can hold all your drives. A used server chassis would be ideal if you use a SAS card. But if you are going to upgrade anyway maybe it’s a time to make plans to make the switch sooner than later.

Do some commercial solutions for this exist that are safe, yes they also live in racks and are effectively ground connected with the cabling protected/much less likely to be bumped into.

And if someone is put in a supervisor position and can’t handle those tasks either? I didn’t say they didn’t know my job, they literally didn’t know what THEY were doing.

Yeah, looked at one for around 5K. Good for about 30 miles because the battery pack needs replaced which increases the price by nearly triple.

Exactly, we have two vehicles. One is 11 years old the other is 23 years old.

Bought an old slum lord house for 18K. Doing all the repair work ourselves. Couldn’t afford 1K a month for rent on an apartment

A new car at 900 plus per month isn’t in the books at all. Plus when it’s 10 years old it will only get 1/4 of the original mileage on a single charge.

Option C

Linux